Journal 5/9/06 section 2 Click here as the ride continues
From CFI
Red Ride Journal continued
HELLO
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__ The RedWagonRiderThank you for taking a moment to read my reflections of the ride, and my thoughts in many forms. I invite you to take part in this journal, just follow these simple steps
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"PrayerRun" Bicycle Ride Journal
This is where I will post a journal of the cross country bicycle tour, events, ride memories, pictures, and my experiences volunteering in the Louisiana costal parrishes.
New Orleans Redwagonrider 21:07, 16 June 2006 (PDT)
I have been in the city for one day. A full day of touring and looking into a world that was turned upside down, splattered all over the road, and scraped up by american media. The lives of those who were lost can never be replaced, but the lives of those who lived? that is where the true question lies. It is as if no one knows. The clammer to rebuild is evident in parts of the city that were barely affected. Barely affected in the sense that they have the money or insurance to get on and through with the disaster. OH what to say, what to say....
I think i need to be in a really enlightened mood to express my self over this question. This end. This beginning. Tomorrow i am going to Common ground to begin my two week stay with them. Before heading down to Houma, and the work of Four Directions. Throughout this time, i will be reflecting, and in an environment that will inspire me to create and write and be a part of the resurection that is New Orleans
I'm goin to Jackson... I'm gonna mess around Redwagonrider 09:17, 9 June 2006 (PDT)
Poised to cross the Mississippi, i remembered my words, and the wisdom i had given to myself. To sleep on the Banks of the MIssissippi. Well, i almost crossed. I started up the long metal bridge towards Greenville, MS. A two lane road that would take me over the mighty waters that could be seen swirling around in the distance. Off my bike onto a small metal span. pusing it along the white line as the sun was about to go down. Just a picture i thought to myself. Traffic is lite enough, i can make it just far enough to get a beautiful picture of the Mississippi river over the greenville bridge at sunset. I got the picture, and i got my A** off that bridge the same way i came. Onto the west bank, the levees that would withstand many of floods. Thats where i met a nice couple who showed me a spot to camp. not on the banks, they forgot about that one, but a spot none-the-less. In the mornign i again met these folks for a ride over the bridge. The Greenville bridge is quite long, as the Mississippi is wide. I caught i ride ten miles up the road into Greenvile, MS to experience the town. Another town that has been abandoned by commerce for the highway. another town lost to the signs and traffic of road rage america. I don't know how many small towns i have seen take this same fateful turn. When the road comes along, out goes the businessess, in comes the fast food restaurants, and the chain stores. Well, they have developed in my lifetime, and it will be interesting to see where these places are again in the future. Will the chains and boxes hold up, or is their meager facade nothing more than a crack in time.
From Greenville i rode down the Great River Road till i got to the cutoff for the Leroy Percy state park. A small state park tucked back into the fields and swamps of Mississippi. There i rested for the evening. a couple of days ahead of schedule. This schedule i am refering to started when my mom and i discussed her commin gout to join me for a leg of the ride. Well all the plans are set, and she will be boarding a plane this evening from Medford Oregon, to Jackson Mississippi. Together we will ride the last 5 days of the ride. from Jackson along the Natchez Trace Parkway, through Port Gibson, Natchesz and into Baton Rogue. We will be riding at about the same pace i have been keeping, and probably be maintaing the same diet, and night stay arrangements. The Natchez Trail is a historic trail that has been used for centuries. Native people traditionally walked it from the south, and as the Mississippi gained use a a major tradeway, workers on barges headed down stream would walk along the trace back up north. Now it is a road, with sections of the original trail intact. In the spots where the trail is intact, a deep groove cuts into the ground from all the thousands of passers through that have been along the trail.
SO my schedule has been rather easy getting into Jackson. I arrived early yesterday, and explored the northern portions of the city. On bicycle without knowing a soul in a large town i felt right at home. I found fresh fruit at a roadside stand where a group of older African/ American gentlemen sat around enjoying each others company and the early afternoon. From there, the library and the federal building took my attention. Ah the LIBRARY. a beckon. a tower of hope. a place where the children can find escape, race, distinction dosen't matter. A truly public institution.
Later into the eveing i came across another public instituition. At the Library i meet Martin. A peacful soul that had been around a time or two, had ridden his bike on several tours, and was staying at the Salvation Army shelter while he was in Jackson. He told of what an excellent facility they had, and how accesible it would be. I arrived on their doorstep latter into the evening, blew clean into a breathalyzer, and explained my situation. Before long, i had my bicycle safely stowed away, clean showers within reach and a very inexpensive laundry facility. I had been avoiding using shelters throughout my ride. For no reason really, i just hadn't needed one. Last night, the salvation Army saved me from having to camp within Jackson. A city with the third highest crime rate in the country. A beautiful city, full of diversity, but also riddled with corruption, and problems. The floks i meet at the shelter were all kind and gentle. Most of them were involved in a treatment program, or a transitional housing program. They were all curious about my endeavor, as i was about there lifes and adventures. It is interesting to get to see these people on there own level. to meet them and respect their lives and needs, the same as i am respected for my goals and methods. In the morning we awoke to coffee and Krispy Creme donuts.
gotta go Benjamin
Arkansas, in and out Redwagonrider 09:56, 5 June 2006 (PDT)
WEll. how can i explain myself. I haven't been posting lately. not that the words havne't been there, i just haven't been having any luck with the computers. My last post got erased before i got it saved, and before that i was trying to get a whole bunch of pictures online. So time has been the issue. with everyday laid out in front of me, and with nothing to do but ride my bicycle thats the best excuse i can come up with.
I am just about through Arkansas. on the eastern boarder is the Mississippi. I should see its waters this evening. I will be within its mist, and magic. I want to sleep on its banks, and feel the bugs. Listen to the birds and watch the sun set and rise from its western shores. The crossing of the mississippi is a monument. A test and critical moment in the journey i have been on. My health is good, my strength and will have grown. Now with my bicycle and ten days to go, i can't believe it is almost over. Oklahoma was sweet to ride through. I stayed with some new friends in Edmond Oklahoma last weekend. There doorstep was at the end of the longest day of riding I haqve seen yet. 86 miles... 86 hard miles, that took me along I-40 and down route 66, then up through the neighborhoods and suburbs of OKC. I stayed at the home of Laura, Lo and Elyse. Three wonderful girls whom took me and my bicycle in. We chated throughout the night of the wonders we have seen in life. the oportunities of travel, and the splendor of personal accomplishmets. On my way out, Laura joined me for a 25 mile ride out to Jones (Elyses home town) where we made it just in time for a grand breakfast. Laura is also on her way down to New Orleans for a volunteer service position through Americorps. We shall meetup again and explore some more on bicycle. One thing i couldn't get over in Oklahoma was all of the raod kill. So many Armadillos and box turtles meet their fate on the side of the road. There were times when all i could smell was the stentch of roadkill. It was awfull. Not that i want to talk bad about Oklahoma. I really loved riding through the state. It was gorgeous and all the people were so wonderfull and accomodating.
My last night in Oklahoma was spent at the Heavener Runes state park. A place of historic quandry. The runes are stones that have been engraved in with markings from a speculated language of Ancient viking origin. The Park is spectacular and gives one a vast overlook of the hills of eastern Oklahoma.
Into Arkansas i pedaled alone in Ouiachita National forest. the space was emmense, the feeling of mist and moonshine hint hint, was forbooding. I haven't been scared of any state, and i wasn't scared of Arkansas, but surely there was suspense in the air as i passed onto the roads where there was no shoulder. My first stop was in Norman. Again a great Couchsurf had apeared out in the middle of the forest, away from the hubub of any city. Real Arkansas. I went fishing in a little creek, ate sticks and twings with my beans, and enjoyed a very peacful time in their neck of the woods. At this point arkansas skies had opened up to me, and brought a new outlook on the state. with the sunshine came the smiles and within no time i was surrounded by friends.
Oh Mississippi, i hear you calling my name. Peace Benjamin
Oklahoma sweet Oklahoma Redwagonrider 12:03, 24 May 2006 (PDT)
Need to be short and sweet. I came across a horny toad today, well actually it is a lizard. Cutest darn thing i have ever held. He let me pick em up and take his picture. well. thats all for now. Made a quick stop in Elk City and now i am getting back on the road. Going to see upwards of eighty miles toady, and eigthy tomorrow. wish me luck. Benjamin
Across the Texas Panhandle Redwagonrider 13:13, 23 May 2006 (PDT)
Hello, my friends how i miss all of your love and comments, questions, thoughts, and inspiration. Talk to me... tell me what is up! I have been trudging over some flat land with out the help of the wind. Infact, it has been against me the whole way. 100 miles out of Amarillo, with another 20 togo for the day and i am waiting for the winds to either kick up and make me stay here for the evening, or turn a bit and give me some room to ride. The panhandle is a very beautiful place. Windswept plains rise from the road and lead the eye to the end of the horizon. A scatter of trees embeded with the strength and determination of the settlers. Settlers whom descended with their great chaos, to face the chaos of the land, and to claim it from the bufallo. Towns of old, forgotten except by those who desire to remember and live within their own elegence and grace the visotor with poise and presence. Turns of nothing and spots of vigilance. It seems as if the panhandle is made up of two different places.
When i left Pampa on the morning of May 23rd. I expected much of the same as the day before. The wind to continuosly harass me for my sixty miles, and desolation to settle upon me as i crept my way towards oklahoma. To my surprise after twenty miles, the end of the mesa i was currently on began to break under the rains that this edge of texas regularly recieves. Hills began to show on the horizon, and my mind began to wander back into what i was doing, and off of the mindless, infinate plain it fell upon. Greens begain to reign on the roadside, it even seemed as if the people were friendlier, which is pretty hard to do, because everyone in texas is pretty friendly. A profussion of wildflowers took over the sweatty scent i eminated, and the rank odor which arose from feedyards. The death of the cattle industry... Beautiful sunflowers, red flowers, pinks and purples bloomed in profusion. I was swept away at the change all of the life and color brought back into my mood. every scene change, every sunrise, reminds me that i am not alone in this world, adn that we all feel the power of life. I wish you all the best. Please enjoy life and yourselves. Benjamin
Santa Rosa, NM following the 40, and trading places with Bill Brooks Redwagonrider 16:40, 17 May 2006 (PDT)
Okay we have pictures, yesterdays blog has pictures that is, sorry for ending short, i was kicked off a public computer for using to much time. That is how it is going to go from now on. I sent home my Labtop due to a failure in the screen. I knew it would happen soon enough, and haven't decided if i want to have it fixed just yet and sent my way again. soooo... till then it will be a little tricky for me to post pictures, and lots of my pictures are on the computer. I have some from Canyon De Chelly still and into New Mexico, but none of the Salt River Canyon, and Second Mesa.
I am going to start this blog back where i was cut off yesterday, and hopefully get into the events of today. One thing about not having my own computer is that i will probably be more focused when i sit down and use the computer at libraries, and my posts will probably be more frequent.
Where was I... After taking in the sights at window rock and learning about the Navajo Code Talkers. They were the key players in the US victory of the south seas durring world war 2. There native language couldn't be cracked, and for there efforts a beautiful memorial had been built at window rock.
As i continued down the road, i came across a beautiful open air market. full of fragrent food, beautiful people, and wares of everykind. The only thing i bought was some tea called "evil treatment" for my friend Isadora. She has been experiencing the negetive thoughts and feeling of others. I hope this tea will help here ward off the evil thoughts of others.
As i was about to leave the market, a gentlemen whom i told my story to, directed me to the Navajo Times building. He told me to follow through with the goal of spreading the word, and take the time to tell my story. I followed his guidance and found a very receptive audience. Marley Shebala listened and typed away as i told of how i came to be in Window Rock. She was very interested in the tribes i was going to be working with, as she had already done one story about them when a group of Volunteer Navajo firefighters went down to Louisiana after the storm. As we chated, one question she asked me about, that sadly i feel i didn't give a good enough answer to was. "Most people here in Navajo haven't had the opportunity to travel very much. would you please tell me more about the area you grew up in." i don't feel that i gave her a good enough answer. The area i grew up in is so full of life and diversity. the people are wonderful, even in the dead of the summer heat. What i did tell here was about how dramatic our seasonal changes are. Before leaving the Navajo Times, i had befriended everyone in the office, and had a new friend meeting me out on the road for a bit of a ride. Donovan Quintero, a freelance photographer ran home to gallup, a 24 mile ride away and started to ride back to meet me. WE meet up and took some great action shots of me riding my bike. Donovan is an amazing person. He has devoted his life to the art of taking pictures and riding bikes. HE even asked his editore if he could ride all the way with me to Louisiana. OH how i would have enjoyed his company. we parted ways after riding for a little bit with the Gallup Police force, whom happened to be running down route 66 with the torch that will open up the New mexico Special olympics.
ONce in Gallup, i had planned a Couchsurf with my new friend Rachel Fish. She is also a member of Couchsurfing and was more than happy to invite me into her home and life. Her quite abode was merrily filled with her boyfriend Nick, and roommate Kate. They are all teachers in various subjects involved in finishing there schooling. Rachel and Nick have a bicycle trip around the netherlands planned in a couple of weeks. We talked about all of the doos and don'ts of bicycle touring, and i hope i was able to help them out a bit. From there home, i sent home almost twenty pounds of gear. Warm weather clothes, rain clothes, food that wasn't getting eaten, papers, my extra pair of shoes, half of my towel. I realized how much stuff i was carring early on, and now that i am lighter it feels so good out there. (Like for instance today i was able to keep an average speed of 18 miles per hour. with a tail wind, lots of small ups and downs, but al together a pretty brisk touring pace) With Nick and Rachel i explored the Red Rocks State park, got a feel for the landscape, saw some of the burried missle caches, and talked about the ethnic makeup of gallup. Most white people in Gallup are moving through the area. they are there to give their time while learning and finding the next step of their lives. Gallup is just on the edge of the Navajo reservation. This alows for students of services like teaching and healthcare and good place to live right next to an area that appreciates the services that these students can offer.
From Gallup I hitched most of my way to Albuquerque. The riding would have been all along Interstate 40, and i wasn't to interested in that. I had planned to leave Albuquerque going south to Belen and then east along Hwy 60. Luckily i ran into Bill Brooks whom directed me away from Belen and up towards Clines Corners, where i could head south on a nice down hill, miss some extra miles, and meet up with the sixty ahead of schedule. well, get back to Albuquerque in a minute, but on my ride towards Clines corners, i ran into a mighty wind and was forced to setup camp in a nice rest area with camping provided. There i meet with another gentlemen who told me of the traffic to expect along Hwy 60. He warned me of the "pot ash" or something like that Trucks that carry a minned fertilizer along that road. Hwy 60 by his account is a 2 lane road with heavy truck traffic that isn't monitored by any state or local law enforcement. The trucks are said to travel around 90 mph and had even tried to run him off the road while he was on his scooter. I took his advice and declined riding down to the sixty and continued following Interstate 40.
Back to Albuquerque... If you don't know, i love music. I have been playing music for more than ten years now, and when i left seattle i had been playing drums and practicing up with a band to start performing shows. AS i rode through Albuquerque, i noticed a little venue off of route 66 and wished i would be going to a show there. In no time, i found a couple of bands that were touring and to the show i went. Their music was great, the local bands whom had setup the show, weren't exactly my type, but it was fun none the less. I danced, and drank and had a grand old time of the evening. The next day, i paid for it. With only my bicycle, i cruised around Albuquerque wishing i could go on but my mind was so bogged down i knew i couldn't.
That night i stayed in the infield of the Expo, and awoke fresh and ready tuesday morning to a beautiful sunrise and horses running the track around me. With a good day of climbing ahead of me, i left early and starving.
well, the library is about to close, and i have so much more to tell. YOull have to check back in soon, I've got a good poem that is goign to come out of my personal journal early. soo... till next time
Much love, peace and joy Benjamin
Tierjas, NM A day in the San Dias mountains reflections on the past week Redwagonrider 10:15, 16 May 2006 (PDT)
I have had a whirl wind of a week.
Here are the pictures i promised most of them are from Arizona Me dying in the desert heat of California
a beautiful ride through Arizona
i got to big alls just before they opened at ten in the morning, Quartzite AZ
a giant pot along the phoenix canal bike path
the hills outside of Wickenburg, Az on my ride to Phoenix
[ Canyon de Chelly (SHAY) would be the logical place to start. I awoke early on May 10th wtih the sun shinning bright and frost covering my tent. A chilly night had taken over after the winds and storm in Chinle, AZ passed. Up to the top of the Canyon i wound, finding friendly artisians at pullovers and lookouts. A broken chain stopped me for a while, but it is good to experience those things. Flats had become a part of my everyday at this point, and i was prepared to fix the one i recieved that morning. After patching the tube, and everything was ready for air, i pulled the pump off the valve steam and tore right into the tube. I had to use myu last tube, with out a bike shop insight, i knew i was pushing my luck. Everything worked out allright in the end. Through Canyon De Chelly, Former lives were encased in stone, and the moments of time and change reflected in tourism. Ancient peoples were now visited daily by thousands of people, looking taking pictures, buying the world of these traditional people. A world that is changing, and reflecting our ever-growing desires and needs. I didn't come across anyother bicyclists there, just campers, and tourists, and indians. The Apaches, Navajos, and Hopis are great people. The stories they told me while overlooking there sacred space and home reflects their devotion to the place. The rides i recieved while on the Res were all super friendsly and opened myu eyes to the vast land they posses. How i wish i could have stayed for a longer time. That is how i feel wherever i go. I want to keep moving, but at the same time i want to be in one spot for a longer time. I want to feel the people right down to the very core.
I left the Canyon late in the afternoon, and knew it would be dark before i got to my sighted destination. However again i picked up a ride and made it 30 miles further than i intended and stayed in Navajo, NM. Indeed that would allow me to have a very comfortable ride all the way into Gallup, NM on Thursday.
ON my way to Gallup, i stopped in at Window rock for breakfast, and took in the vast scene.
Canyon De Chelly Redwagonrider 18:15, 9 May 2006 (PDT)
I am passing through Arizona Canyon De Chelly National Monument tomorrow. I will camp there tonight!!
To get here, i left the traceable path of the sacred run runners. Instead of heading to Payson then Showlow, i took the Salt River Canyon route via Globe on up to Show Low. After my last post in Globe about the CInco De Mayo festivities, i met up with David. An adventurous soul with stories and plenty of room in his van for his bike, and all of my gear. We drove through the Salt River Canyon chatting about the adventures in life, and the possibilities of friendships that can just happen. I have some piictures from that drive that i will share soon. I promise, i keep saying that, and i am getting better at working with the program i have for formating pictures.
On sunday i rode from Show Low up to Holbrok then hitchhiked (yes, with my bike) up to and camped at the Homolovi ruins on Hwy 87. On monday i started the best section of the ride yet. I moved onto Navajo reservation land, and the land of the Hopis. Just before i enterd the res. I stopped for the breathtaking experience of seeing the Little Painted Desert. The mesa i had been riding up sudenly dropped away as i approached the rim. An overlook extending out all around for miles, There were crevices cascading down on all sides, little shoots that ran through the brown, then red, grey, ocher, white, pinks, black, and greens. it was a apiritual experience i cannot put into words, today. If you are my mom and dad, you will get the rest of the desc ription in the mail. everyone else will have to wait for the book to come out. It was so amazing, i am having a hard time putting it into words. Everday i am awakened to the possibility of a jaw dropping experience. I capture most of them in photos, and most of them in my personal journal. I feel that i am not giving this journal enough attention. I promise, if you leave me youir email address, or contact, i will send you this journal with all of the entries of my personal journal.
Then onto the Navajo Reservation. The ride was very difficult on monday. I was battling a 25 mph cross wind, that at times helped me, but held the ride to a cumbersome pace most of the time. i wound my way around black mesa, and elephant mesa, into the plains where i could see Second Mesa and the the home of the Hopi's at a far distance. Twenty miles to go, i ran out of energy. i was fighting for more, and would push on till i got there. To my luck and through realizing and learning a valuable lesson, i met Clyde lomayaktewa. He picked me and my load straight off the road. Onto second mesa i was headed. Clyde told me of the history surrounding the Hopi peoples move from the fertile lands bellow up to the rocky mesas. How the Apaches had been driven from their lands, and began raiding the hopis plains villages. For defense the Hopis were forced to move up to and live on their sacred mesa tops. As i drove through town, Clyde showed me the original ruins of his ancestors, the sacred corn rocks, and the trails that his people used to get to the top of the mesas. Once clyde had me safely to my campround, which the hopis provide for free, i met up with Nate. A cool cat from Flagstaff, whom was up in hopi land to fill the vending machines. We kick baged, and hacked, in more than one way. He showed me to the top of the hotel for some sunset pictures, and let me charge my camera batteries in his motel room. Our conversation was real, touching in a way that made me realize how much life i had been missing before this trip. Through listening to our differences and connecting over the similarities i came to appreciate him much more than i would have ever in my former ways. All in a days ride.
Tuesday had me leaving Second Mesa as the dawn woke the hills, and filled the valleys with the light of a new day. I tracked west through pollaca and keams canyon, stoping to fill my tire and fix the obnoxious flats i am now daily getting in my rear tire. About noon, a storm that nad been filling colorado and utah descended upon me. the winds left my rear, and came head on at upwards of 30 - 45 mph. I couldn't move forward, i dismounted and slowly inched forwarded, looking for safer ground. I tucked in behind a smal farmhouse for a bit, but knew i couldn't stay there. I headed for the road again to see if i could get a ride. hopeless, and unsure of the possibility of finding a ride, i hoped on my bike and rode with the storm back towards the last town i had passed through. Each car i saw comming, headed in the direction i had been going, i would swing around and stick out my thumb. Through this i found luck with an environmental cleanup contractor who had finished with a project early and decided to head up to Canyon De Chelly for the afternoon on his way to Gallup. He stopped at the sight of me struggling in the wind. No sooner than if it was planned, we had my ride loaded up and off to Canyon de Chelly i was. The sky is blue now and i am looking forward to the satisfying sunrise i know will greet me at the parks door. I have been sitting in this restaurant enjoying all of this free internet time, and i haven't uploaded any pictures. sorry. on friday, i promise pictures galore.
till then my friends. let the peace be with you and fill your wings. Benjamin
Your Comments
User: Jenny Burnstad 22:38 Summer Solstice June 21, 2006 (PDT) CONGRATULATIONS BEN!!! You are there! I got goose bumps reading your June 16 posting. You are always quite insightful but with this one your insight speaks with what you didn't say. I can only imagine how beyond words it is. New Orleons is a warriors test for North American people and you are certainly one of the most gentle warriors I know of. May all good things happen for you and thank you for your caring heart.
Tish harlow 20:17, 18 May 2006 (PDT) Littlemama: Hi Benjamin, it is so very good to hear your voice, I leave it on my phone so I can hear it whenever I wish. I am trying to figure out how to make it out to see you! Your notes from the trip going out of Gallop and meeting the Indian tribes are inspiring. We are all watching and reading your journal on a daily interest. I cannot wait to see more pictures. Your computer arrived today. I picked it up from the Post Office.. Other packages have not arrived yet? Will be talking to you later.. keep riding and moving forward. Love and hugs, Mum..
Bigsis 22:50, 24 May 2006 (PDT)Hello little brother. Just letting you know what a wonderful story you have created. You are an insperational writer and as I read your entries I feel as if i am beside you. Good Luck in Oklahoma and hope the wind stays behind you! Love from me to you ;)
Bigsis 22:53, 24 May 2006 (PDT)By the way I miss you so much
Bigsis 11:18, 2 June 2006 (PDT)Oh Brother where art thou? I have not heard from you in days. Hope you are having fun cause you are on a rest day. You need to write in this again. I and everyone else want to know what is going on.
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contact Benjamin Harlow
2200 Hull Rd. Medford, OR 97501
telephone (541) 245-8598
email: bicycleride@riseup.net
