Why pay more for local

From CFI

From Mary Zellachild:

The last time I stayed at my sister’s house she asked me why I would pay over $2 a pound for chicken when she could buy it for 69 cents at the supermarket. Luckily, something else came up and I didn’t have to answer. The subject is much too complex to fit into a short, friendly conversation. Probably not wise to lecture your big sister, anyhow.

For those of you who might wonder the same thing, here’s the abridged version. To begin with, do you know where your chicken has spent its short life? Probably not clucking around in a field, pecking at insects. The norm now is to cram as many as possible into a small, confined space. To do this in such a way that the birds grow fast and stay healthy, they are routinely fed antibiotics with their grain. As we’ve all heard by now, chickens aren’t the only meat-producers being raised this way but also cattle, pigs and even farmed seafood.

So what’s wrong with antibiotics? Nothing, when they’re used in the right way—to counter a bacterial infection. But the problem is those tiny bacteria are smart. It doesn’t take them long to figure out how to change form to be resistant to the drug. Antibiotics are transferred to humans as they eat the chicken and also make their way into our water supply through the birds’ and human excreta. With so many antibiotics floating around, bacteria become resistant more quickly. Which is what’s happening now.

I don’t know what the situation is in other countries, but the majority of large chicken farmers in the U.S. are trapped in the “company store” syndrome. The same corporation that sells them chicks, feed and other supplies, also has a monopoly on distribution. To stay in business, the farmers are required to upgrade their infrastructure regularly to the corporation’s standards. Then when it comes time to sell their chickens, prices are often so low the farmers can’t make it. Farmers—not just chicken farmers—are continuing to go bankrupt and quit farming at an alarming rate.

So when we talk about “cheap” chicken, that’s only the supermarket price. To figure the real cost we have to add in taxes we pay for environmental cleanup and subsidies for cheap grain. We also need to add in health care costs and the deterioration of rural communities as farmers leave.

Is the chicken I buy raised in Willits? Not yet. It comes from Petaluma—just inside the 100-mile “local” food limit. At least I know it’s raised without hormones or antibiotics. I’m looking forward to the day when I can say yes! This chicken was born and raised in Willits, and I know the farmer! I have confidence that in the future this will be an addition to our local food web.